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Mac Kinley climbing

North America. USA. Alaska

Climbing McKinley (Denali) of 6195 m.

Maximum height: 6195 m
Category of the program: mountaineering
Complexity of the program: average (PRELIMINARY PREPARATION is REQUIRED!)
Duration: 6 days
Season: April - June
Pervovoskhozhdeniye: Hudson Stak, 1913

McKinley (6195 m) - classics of mountaineering, the highest point of North America.

The highest point of North America, McKinley (6195 m) throughout already attracts almost century to itself views and thoughts of climbers of the whole world. The top is located behind the Polar Circle, is relative near the Pacific Ocean - as a result of this combination weather conditions in the area differ in special complexity. Technically, McKinley it is rather simple, in this regard, many climbers rise by this mountain as training and acclimatization before more serious high-rise ascensions.

For McKinley it is also known under the primordial name of Denali that in translation from language of Indian natives means "Great". Actually, there is about dozen of original names of this top having too the value. But Americans not too respect history and customs of the former owners of this earth - a majestic snow dome renamed into honor of the president popular in due time it is from Ohio. Now enthusiasts make attempts to return McKinley the historical name. The State of Alaska officially accepted Denali's name for this mountain, and the federal management approved the new name of national park in which the top - Denali National Park is located. The congress, however, doesn't hurry to show interest in this question.

The first attempts of ascension on Denali were made at the beginning of the 19th century. In 1906, Frederik Cook declared that he was at top, but him quickly split when it was proved that him "photos at top" were made on a small pupyr in 20 kilometers from the real top of Denali. In 1910, the team of 4 servicemen without any preliminary climbing experience managed to get up on Northern Top of Denali. Nobody trusted their success to тез a time until official expedition found at top five-meter pine дрын, established there by brave pioneers.

The first documentary ascension was made in 1913 when the team under the leadership of Hudson Staka reached the Southern Top. The route through the Western Kuluar was for the first time passable in 1951 by Bradford Vashburn. The first winter ascension was made on February 28, 1967.
Climbing McKinley (Denali) according to the Western Kuluar - the Classic
Alaska, climbing McKinley (Denali)

Ascension on Mack - Kinley (Denali) is connected with serious physical activities and use of climbing equipment. Work experience with climbing equipment is required. It is recommended to complete a course of trainings of Equipment of mountaineering before a trip.

The majority of climbing McKinley are made along a route through the Western Kuluar (West Buttress route) as it is rather safe and simple technically. This external simplicity does the dirty deed - the Western Kuluar doesn't forgive mistakes, the most skilled voskhoditel suffered failure and perished on this route. Except the Western Kuluar for ascensions routes on Mildrou's glacier, the Western Edge, Kassin's route and the Southern Buttress are quite popular.

First rule ALEXCLIMB
The first rule by which we are guided when developing a route is a safety. The group is accompanied by professional climbers, the high quality certified equipment and the most modern navigation equipment is used only. All this guarantees the greatest possible level of your safety that is the most important part of our work.

The plan of the "Ascension on Mack — Kinley (Denali)" program on days:

Ascensions on Mack - Kinley (Denali).
Mountaineering, Advanced level
Mountaineering and tracking in North America, ascension of McKinley (Denali)
Mountaineering and tracking in North America, ascension of McKinley (Denali)
Mountaineering and tracking in North America, ascension of McKinley (Denali)
Day 1 - the international flight to Anchorage, placement in hotel ***

Day 2 - flight in Base Camp of McKinley (Denali)

Day 3 - transition to camp of 2400 m

Day 4 - transition to camp of 2700 m

Day 5 - transition to camp of 2900 m

Day 6 - day of rest

Day 7 - a zabroska in camp of 3300 m, return to camp of 2900 m

Day 8 - transition to camp of 3300 m

Day 9 - day of rest

Day 10 - a zabroska in camp of 4300 m

Day 11 - ascension on top of McKinley (Denali) of 6195 m, descent in Assault camp of 4300 m

Day 12 - descent in camp of 3300 m

Day 13 - descent in Base Camp flying away

Day 14 - flight to Anchorage, placement in hotel ***

Day 15 - flying away


To what it is necessary to be ready:

independent cooking during acclimatization exits / ascensions;
carrying of a backpack weighing 25-30 kg;
air temperature at the height more than 5000 m can fall to -40 °C;

Program cost from: $2200;

Conditions: the minimum group 3 persons, is recommended to complete a course of trainings of Equipment of mountaineering before a trip
Is included in the price: services of the guide, a climbing insurance, use of a basic set of medicines, public equipment (tents, ropes, kitchen and navigation equipment), all moving within the country according to the Program (rent of the car, fuel, payment of roads), food during ascension, accommodation in hotels, hostels and campings, and also excursions according to the program
Isn't included in the price of a trip: flight avia cost from Moscow to point began programs (Anchorage) and back to Moscow, the expenses connected with registration of the American visa, hire of personal equipment, food and drinks (except products on ascension), use of satellite phone.
Number of participants: 6
Guides: 2
 

The list of equipment for participation in the "Ascension on Mack — Kinley (Denali)" program.
Form of the application for participation in the "Ascension on Mack — Kinley (Denali)" program.


 

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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