Caucasus. Russia. Kabardino-Balkaria. Bezengi.
Northern Central Caucasus, Bezengi valley. Climbing Dykh Tau (5203 m). Classic climb of Dykh Tau (5203 m) by the North Crest (Cokkin
route, 4a Russian Grade)
Altitude: 5203 m
Program category: Technical Mountain Climbing
Difficulty: high (SPECIAL SKILLS ARE REQUIRED!)
Duration: 15 days
Season: June - September
First climb: John Garford Cokkin, 1888
Classic climbs of Caucasus - Climbing Dykh Tau (5203 m) by the North Crest (Cokkin
route, 4a Russian Grade)
Dykh Tau is located opposite to the famous Bezengi Wall in the so called "Northern Massif".
Dykh Tau is the second high mountain of the Caucasus - higher is Elbrus only (5648 m). By the difficulty of the routes it is
one of the most complicated climbing objects in Caucasus.
Classic climbs of Caucasus - Climbing Dykh Tau (5203 m) by the North Crest (Cokkin
route, 4a Russian Grade)
Classical route of Dykh Tau - The North Ridge - for the first time was climbed in 1888 by Austrian team under the command of the
famous climber of these times - John Garford Cokkin. Until our time the route did not loose its
attraction for the climbers of the highest competence and is one of the most serious and beautiful
climbing possibilities the Main Caucasus can offer.
The route is classified in the Russian grade system as 4a which is comparable with AD+ in European system.
The North Ridge of Dykh Tau is long, mixt, objectively dangerous route.
Dykh Tau is the Legend mountain, desired goal for the any climber. The mountain which demands from the climber
the maximum of his physical and mental abilities.
The First Law of AlexClimb
The first rule, by which we are guided in developing of the program - it is Safety. Professional Guides lead the group,
only the high quality certificated equipment and advanced navigating systems are used. All that guarantees
the highest possible level of your Safety, and it is the most important part of our work.
The AlexClimb Dykh Tau climbing schedule:
Guided ascent of Dykh Tau by the North Ridge, 4a Russian Grade
Mixed Climb, Advanced level
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Day 1 - International flight to Moscow, hotel accommodation***
Day 2 - Domestic flight to Minvody, transfer to the Bezengi Base Camp, accommodation
Day 3 - Acclimatization
Day 4 - Acclimatization
Day 5 - Acclimatization
Day 6 - Climbing to the Camp I (Russian Bivouac, 3900 m)
Day 7 - Climbing the North Ridge to the Camp II, 4800 m
Day 8 - Summit Day, climbing Dykh Tau 5203 m, descent to the Camp II, 4800 m
Day 9 - Descent to the Camp I, Russian Bivouac, 3900 m
Day 10 - Descent to the Bezengi Base Camp
Day 11 - Spare Summit Day
Day 12 - Spare Summit Day
Day 13 - Return to the Bezengi Base Camp, accommodation
Day 14 - Transfer to Minvody and domestic flight to Moscow, hotel accommodation***
Day 15 - Return International Flight
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You have to be ready for:
- Climbing the route of the top difficulty. The risk and physical load levels are extremely high;
The cost of the program from: 2100 Euro
Conditions: previous climbing experience is essential.
The cost includes: guide services, rent of the communal equipment (ropes, belaying and navigation
equipment, cooking gear), hotel in Moscow and Base Camp accommodation, transfers from the point of the
beginning of the program to its end (Minvody),
using the communal basic medical kit, local registering and climbing permits, food while being in the Base Camp and for outdoor part of the program.
The cost does not include: Russian visa charges*, International and domestic flight expenses to and from the point of the
beginning of the program (Minvody), climbing insurance, rent of the personal equipment, restaurant food and drinks while being in the city,
using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 2
Guides: 2
*AlexClimb Mountain Climbing School can provide Russian Visa support for you. More information on request.
Equipment list for the Dykh Tau AlexClimb Program
The application form for participation in the Dykh Tau AlexClimb Program.
Photos
Mountain climbing in Caucasus, climbing Dykh Tau, August 2007
Mountain climbing in Caucasus, climbing Shkhara from Bezengi, September 2006
Mountain climbing in Caucasus, climbing Shkhara from Svanetia, July 2006
Route descriptions
Caucasus, Dykh Tau. Technical description of the North Ridge route
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