PAMIR. Tadjikistan.
Tadjik Pamir. Climbing Peak Korzhenevskoy, 7105 m., Classic (5a Russian Grade)
Altitude: 7105 m
Program category: High Altitude Mountain Climbing
Difficulty: high (SPECIAL SKILLS ARE REQUIRED!)
Duration: 20 days
Season: August
First climb: V. Tsetlin, 1966
Peak Korzhenevskoy, 7105 m. Classic altitude climb.
Two serious climbs of the mountains higher 7000 meters can be done from the Base Camp
located on the Poliana Moskvina place. These mountains are Peak Communism and its more easy neighbor - the mountain which in
the early Soviet times got the name of the wife of the famous soviet explorer and geographer Nikolay Korzhenevskiy -
Peak Evgenii Korzhenevskoy.
Nowadays climbing this mountain with women's name became the proud stage for any climbing career. During the season (July -
August) to the Moskvina Base Camp come many climbers from different countries for climbing the most beautiful and
serious mountains of the Central Pamir - Peak Korzhenevskoy and Peak Communism.
Climbing Peak Korzhenevskoy, 7105 m., Classic (5a Russian Grade)
Climbing Peak Korzhenevskoy connected with top physical loads and using mountain climbing skills.
Altitude climbing experience is essential for attempting Peak Korzhenevskoy. The
Brief AlexClimb course of mountain technique is recommended before the trip.
The Peak Korzhenevskaya route begins from the Poliana Moskvina Base Camp. From BC easy trek with
short unpleasant scree sections goes up to the long moraine which borders the left side of big glacier
coming down from under Peak Korzhenevskaya North Face.
On the middle section of this moraine the Camp I (5300 m) is located. From this Camp we climb up the glacier (fixed ropes are
used occasionally) to the foot of the South West Face of Peak Korzhenevskoy. Just under the Face there is a possible camping
site (5800 m) which is normally used for acclimatization. From here we follow the line of
the fixed ropes and finally gain the
Saddle at the base of Peak Korzhenevskaya South Summit Ridge.
Then, passing short vertical rock step (40 m, 60-80°, fixed ropes), we get to the huge snow plateau - Camp II, 6400 m.
From here by the long
not steep but sometimes narrow ridge we climb the Summit of Peak Korzhenevskoy. It takes 6 - 12 hours from Camp II to the Summit.
The First Law of AlexClimb
The first rule, by which we are guided in developing of the program - it is Safety. Professional Guides
lead the group, only the high quality certificated equipment and advanced navigating systems are used.
All that guarantees the highest possible level of your Safety, and it is the most important part of our work.
The AlexClimb Peak Korzhenevskoy climbing schedule:
Guided ascent of Peak Korzhenevskoy (7105 m), 5a Russian Grade
High Altitude Climb, Advanced level
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Day 1 - International flight to Dushanbe, hotel accommodation***
Day 2 - Transfer to Djirgital, camping
Day 3 - Helicopter flight to the Poliana Moskvina Base Camp (4300 m)
Day 4 - Carrying loads to the Camp I (5300), descent to BC
Day 5 - Climbing to the Camp I, overnight
Day 6 - Carrying loads to the Camp II (6300), descent to BC
Day 7 - Day off
Day 8 - Climbing to to the Camp I, overnight
Day 9 - Climbing to the Camp II, overnight
Day 10 - Descent to BC
Day 11 - Day off
Day 12 - Day off
Day 13 - Climbing to the Camp I, overnight
Day 14 - Climbing to the Camp II, overnight
Day 15 - Summit day, climbing Peak Korzhenevskoy (7105), descent to the Camp II
Day 16 - Descent to BC
Day 17 - Day off
Day 18 - Helicopter flight to Djirgital
Day 19 - Transfer to Dushanbe, hotel accommodation***
Day 20 - Return International flight
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You have to be ready for:
- 20 days of camping life in a quite uncomfortable conditions;
- Cooking your meals while climbing the mountain;
- Carrying a 25-30 kg backpack;
- Air temperature can be down to –40°C on the altitude higher than 6000 m;
The cost of the program from: 2200 Euro;
Conditions: minimum 4 participants, previous mountain climbing experience is essential.
The cost includes: guide services, basic communal medical kit, rent of the common equipment
(tents, ropes, radios and navigation equipment, cooking gear), all the transfers, local registering and climbing permits,
two times food for the climb and three times food while BC stay.
The cost does not include: Tadjik visa charges, International and Domestic flight expenses
to and from the point of the beginning of the program (Dushanbe), climbing insurance,
rent of the personal equipment according to the list, extra food and drinks,
using the satellite phone.
Group capacity: 6
Guides: 2
Equipment list for the Peak Korzhenevskoy AlexClimb Program
The application form for participation in the Peak Korzhenevskoy AlexClimb Program.
Photos
Mountain climbing in Pamir, climbing Peak Korzhenevskoy, 2005
Route descriptions
Pamir, Technical description of the Peak Korzhenevskoy route
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