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Peru, Andes. Tocllaraju

ANDES.
Tocllaraju, Peru, South America, the difficulty of PD. Season May-August

In this section you will find the most objective technical information about climbing routes. Route descriptions are based on personal experience guides operating on these routes. They do not claim absolute accuracy, bound for the complexity of individual sections can be subjective.

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Do not forget that climbing routes can be deadly regardless of their complexity.

Climbing route begins from the mountain village of Indian Pashpa. Until Pashpy can be reached from the town of Huaraz - the local tourist center. Prior to Huaraz buses go from the capital of Peru - Lima (two buses a day, morning and evening, to go about 8 hours). In Huaraz is easy to find a taxi to Pashpy (about an hour ride on a bad road specifically). Also in Huaraz can agree on zabroske carrying loads of Pashpy to base camp on donkeys. Do it right in Pashpe will be more difficult - Indians mostly speak Quechua, with them even in Spanish can be difficult to explain.

From Pashpy on a country road to move towards the entrance of the gorge Ishinca, highly visible from the village. The road is well trodden, remarkable. It leads to the shelter Ishinca, located 18 km from Pashpy (4-5 hours journey) at the left front corner of the wide moraine plateau at the end of the valley.

From the shelter Ishinca move up towards the top of Tocllaraju, keeping to the left side of the plateau. The trail is, but it periodically poorly visible. Further rise between the left (hereinafter the direction of travel) and the slope of the gorge high moraine ridge. The trail, marked tours, serpentine goes right up to the top snowy plateau 5300. assault camp can be broken on the rocks 100 meters below the edge of the plateau (big sypuha uncomfortable), or in the snow on the plateau. From the shelter Ishinca 5-7 hours.

The next day, we recommend an early exit (2-3 am), late in the season on the route may be a crowd of people. Cross the snowy plateau towards the top, under the wall traverse left towards the icefall. The ascent becomes steeper, before going to the base of the ridge Tocllaraju - the coolest place on the route: 60 meters of ice, the steepness of 60-70 m. At this point in the season can be formed cork. Next, pass between the seracs and get to the bottom of a gentle ridge Tocllaraju. Comb simple only in the upper portion becomes slightly steeper (100m, 50-60 g.) At the top of the outlet may be a small ledge. From 5300 camp 5-8 hours. Descend the path lifting. The shelter Ishinca can go down to the summit.

Of equipment recommend a helmet, ice ax and an ice tool (or two ice tools and telescopic sticks), helmets, some ice screws with braces, rope 50 meters (7-8 mm), strapping.

Additional information about the route of ascent to Tocllaraju:

Photos from the route

GPS coordinates (.wpt)

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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