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Elbrus. Today, yesterday and tomorrow

Elbrus. Yesterday. Today. Tomorrow?

(author A. Trubachev)

photographs
photographs

In the 2008 season climbing Elbrus, organized by the School of Mountaineering and Climbing AlexClimb, carried out with the support of the Italian company CAMP

And on the horizon was visible biceps snowy mountain at sunset shining crimson flame of fire of heaven ...

Caucasus, Elbrus

Fifteen kilometers north of the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range, which separates Russia from the once brotherly Georgia, like the old nurse, jealously covering young mountains of saucy look from the plains, the sky lifts its two mountain snow dome, whose name is known even to schoolchildren with a triple by geography.

Caucasus, Elbrus Once upon a time, the fury of a fire-breathing monster has left its traces all over the world. Modern geography of Europe owes much of its current view of prehistoric disasters related to eruptions of Mount Elbrus. In our time, is considered to be an extinct volcano Elbrus.

But, contrary to popular belief, sleeping dragon is not dead. Moderate signs of volcanic activity visible both at the foot and up to the top of Mount Elbrus. Lot of hot springs, volcanic gas emissions, fumaroles and volcanic caves - all this clearly says that under the thick ice shell, in the innermost depths of the mountains, the old man put out the Hermes is not a stove.

Caucasus, Elbrus Elbrus etymology of the name dates back to the days of Tamerlane and the Iranian word Albors that Farsi High Mountain. Oddly enough, but in the local language - in Balkar, or Karachay word Elbrus has no harmonies, no matter. Moreover, in all of these languages have Elbrus has its own, much less frequently used names such as Mingi Tau (thousandths Mountain) Oshkhamakho (Mountain happiness) or Kuskamaf (top, giving happiness).

... Hardly Chief of the Imperial General Caucasian fortified line Emmanuel George, head of the first expedition to the summit of Mount Elbrus, making his landmark ascent in 1829, could have imagined that it opens a new and totally no precedents in the last page in the history of man's relationship with the mountains. Although by the time practice climbing knew Caucasus, Elbrus much more serious sport rock climbing routes, climbing Elbrus, however, was one of the highlights of the nineteenth century.

Much has changed since then as a member of the legendary expedition Kabardian Chilar Khashirov July 10, 1829, the first man in history to set foot on a flat, snow-covered eastern peak of Mount Elbrus.

Today we see the world very differently and treat it differently. For some hundreds of years mankind has grown and matured. Changed the relation of man to the ground and space, to the distances to the time and to himself. The man felt the world around them and decided that knew him .. The only thing that has hardly changed - it is man's relation to man ...

"And before the war, this one slope
German guy took with him,
He fell down, but was saved
And now he may be
Your machine is ready to fight ... "

Caucasus, Elbrus Great Patriotic War. On the black, snow-covered basalt rocks Shelter 11, turned one of the most dramatic pages of defense of the Caucasus. Elbrus had no strategic importance. It was a symbol, the highest point in Europe. Animal Instinct "possession" resulted in terrible slaughter on the slopes of the ancient mountains. The two parallel each other rocky ridge, at an altitude of over 4,000 meters, death stood third mountain infantry detachment of a special group of NKVD troops of the 37th Army, numbering 180 men, formed in Ordzhonikidze (Vladikavkaz) and separate battalion 99- th regiment of Chasseurs mountain Division Edelweiss. Germans confidently took up positions near Shelter 11, established the Nazi flag on top of Elbrus West and declared to the world that the military operation in the Caucasus is almost complete. But a few days later retreated with heavy losses under the pressure of a numerically small and poorly equipped squad of Soviet soldiers.

Caucasus, Elbrus To this day, in the hot summer months, when the rocks of Mount Elbrus are free of snow, involuntarily pay attention to how often found among the rocks fragments of rusty iron, pieces of mines, shells and wrinkled clips from rifles - silent witnesses of the heroic events of more than half a century ago.

Today on Elbrus mix two seemingly disparate phenomena. On the one hand, it increased to unprecedented sizes of interest and popularity, but on the other .... complete desolation. There are only ruins of the legendary Shelter 11, the highest mountain hotel in the world, the Caucasus, Elbrus built in 1932, has experienced a flurry of fighting the Great Patriotic War, to the top of the 90 abandoned and burnt down in 1998 due to the negligence of random "owners" .. . After the fire, the concrete base around the burned buildings, like mushrooms ponarosli huts, sheds and huts - It is reasonable response to local entrepreneurs lack of state interest and centralized power. Naturally, the environmental issue here nobody cares: spontaneously formed landfills, toilets are organized on the principle of "all into the abyss" - not visible - means no ...

Four years ago the management of the National Park Elbrus took the initiative and organized innovation: the Caucasus, climbing Elbrus Elbrusza began to take charge. Unfortunately, the collection of money had no effect on the poor condition of the route - garbage becomes more and more spontaneous construction continued to grow. At the same time, the main argument in favor of the Park was the need to pay that money is needed to maintain the delicate balance of nature in a protected area of mountain reserve! You should have seen this balance! Elbrus gasps from the huge influx of visitors on the one hand and uncontrolled greed of business on the other.

How things will shape the history of the two-headed Gray Patriarch? It is clear that sooner or later everything will take a civilized form, and has long been unequivocally accepted by all countries interested in the exploitation of its natural resources. The only question is, how in the distant future it will happen with us ...? Caucasus, Elbrus

Climb the mountain peaks around the world, returning to his native Caucasus, every time I deeply upset again and again convinced that barbaric consumer attitude towards nature, fully peculiar to our people and our country, such a vast, rich and may poeomu such indifferent to their future while ...

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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