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West Elbrus

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

Caucasus, Russia.
Climbing West Elbrus by classic route from South (1b Russian grade). Season: June - August (Best time - July-September)

Information intended for evaluation purposes only. In order to avoid surprises and possible dangers and complications, we recommend to take part in the organized program of the MCS AlexClimb "Caucasus Russia, climbing Elbrus" - by well known route, accompanied by experienced guides. This will significantly increase the probability of success and safety of your climbing Elbrus.

The route begins from  Azau village - that place you can reach by taxi from Nalchik or Mineralnye Vody. From Azau, by cable car (1 hour) or on foot (3-4 hours) go to level 3700 where the shelter "Barrels"  is located. From "Barrels", by well marked trail go the former "Shelter of 11" site (4050 m, 1-1,5 hours). Overnight is possible here in the small huts which is better to book previously, especially during the high season. From Shelter of 11, go up to the Pastukhov's rocks (1,5-2 hours, 4700). Then, having gained on rather sloping (20-25) snowice slope 200 m, turn slowlyl to the left and start traverse in the direction of the  "Saddle of Elbrus" (5250m, 3-4 hours) - most physically difficult hard part of the route, the altitude gain is very serious. By the marked trail reach the place of the destroyed hut in northern part of a Saddle of Elbrus. Here is normal site for having a break before the final section of the route - climbing the Summit dome of Elbrus. From the bivouac go towards the rocky ridge which is going down from the Western Top. (Attention! Existence of ice-covered sites is possible). Passing through a small gap in rocks, go futher to their right side (in the direction of moving) - from here it is only 200 meters left to the top of Elbrus. From the Saddle to the Summit of Elbrus it is 1-1.5 hours. Technically, ascension doesn't present any difficulties, all route is just glacier walking, using crampones and with ski poles. This Elbrus route is very popular, there is always visible trail. Usually the trail is marked by the landmarks.

The main danger of Elbrus route — sharp deterioration of weather and, as a result, possible loss of the orientation. In bad weather it is very easy to be lost any direction. The best solution for your safety is to use the services of the professional mountain guide, or at least using the GPS receiver for emergency navigation.
Elbrus is rather high mountain, this can be the most serious difficulty for climbing Elbrus — loads to your organism when climbing Elbrus  are very serious. It isn't recommended to attempt Elbrus climb without correct preliminary acclimatization.

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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