Georia, Kazbek

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

Caucasus, Georgia.
Climbing Kazbek by classic route (1b Russian grade). Season: June - August (Best time - July-August)

Information intended for evaluation purposes only. In order to avoid surprises and possible dangers and complications, we recommend to take part in the organized program of the MCS AlexClimb "Caucasus Georgia, climbing Kazbek" - by well known route, accompanied by experienced guides. This will significantly increase the probability of success and safety of your climbing in Georgia.

Kazbek climbing route starts from the Georgian village Kazbegi, which you can reach by car or public transport from Tbilisi. It is recommended to register in the rescue service before climbing Kazbek. Th Office of rescuers is located in the center of village of Kazbegi.

From Kazbegi village, on foot (2 hours) or an SUV (30 min) reach to the top of the valley, where strict outlines of Sameba church can be seen above Kazbegi village  - very beautiful place, worth a visit regardless of the presence or absence of plans to climb Mount Kazbek. From the church the well trodden path, almost road leads up to the Pass. From the church walk for about 2 hours to a small saddle, which has a large concrete block. The Pass is overlooking the whole Kazbek, also our goal of this day - Betlemi hut is clearly visible in good weather. By that road pass many tourists, the route is clearly visible and present no difficulties at all.

After about 200 meters down from the Pass the good path begins to dissapear. Cross the river and move further towards the glacier. The trail is getting worse and in some places can disappear among the ridges of the moraine. The main task here - to adhere the basic direction of the side of the glacier. Get to the glacier in the left (in the direction of movement) part of it,  if glacier is not covered with snow - there is a chance you will need crampons. From the Pass approximately 1-1.5 hours.

Getting to the body of the Glacier, keep to the flat middle section, move towards the Betlemi hut. Usually there is a well-broken trail, in this case, you can move without roping. In the conditions of poor visibility, bad weather conditions, lack of trails - move only roped - there are many crevasses. The way from the village of Kazbegi to Betlemi hut - about 4-6 hours.

Overnight in Betlemi hut - in quite tolerable conditions, hut is quite filthy. Not heated. There is a possibility of spending the night in the tents in front of the hut - but you have to carry your tents in that case.

Start going to the route - very early in the morning, 3-4 am. With a flashlight move up from the hut along the main glacier (slope of Mount Kazbek - on your right). There may be no trails, but the slope is rather flat. After getting to the top of the first glacial plateau move cautiously - from here begins the crevasssed area, moving roped is recommended. If possible, keep to the edge of the slope, do not go to the glacier center  - crevasses. Also there is a danger of rocks falling from the slope, use a helmet!

At altitude about 4200 go to the glacier and keep a little more to the left, walk the top glacier plateau - 4500 meters. If there are no trails or no visibility to continue the climb is not recommended - the navigation on this route in difficult weather conditions can become serious problem.

Taking to the right, traverse the northern slope of East Summit of Mount Kazbek. The slope becomes quite steep at the top, in case of existance of hard firn or ice - the belaying may be necessary. Climb the saddle between the Main and East Summits of Mount Kazbek - 50 meters of steep slope. From Betlemi Hut to the Saddle - about 3-5 hours.

From the Saddle move towards the Main Summit of Kazbek. The slope becomes steeper, you may need belaying, in the upper part there can be part of slope covered by ice, for climbing which the icescrews normally used. From the Saddle to the top of Mount Kazbek it is no more than 1 hour. Descend the same way in approximately 2-3 hours to Betlemi Hut.

On the descent you should be particularly careful - moving on the glacier only roped - a lot of deep crevasses. In the second half of the summer there is another danger - regular rock falls from the slope of Mount Kazbek, especially dangerous during the descent. Be cautious in case of danger of rockfalls - if necessary use observer.

Descent to Kazbegi is possible on the same day in case of normal physical condition of the group. It takes another 3-4 hours.

Good luck and Good weather to you!