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Wind, Rocks and South Cross

Wind, Rock and Southern Cross

(author A. Trubachev)

photographs

The event was designed and organized by the School of Mountaineering and Climbing AlexClimb. General sponsor of the project - the company Home Design. Climbing equipment was provided by CAMP. Sincere thanks to all!

Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook

entry

I look at the fire ... He is dancing fun, throwing up thin arms, reaching for sparks to fly away forever, but do not catch up with them again and again falls helplessly down at the smoldering embers purple ...

Fire kindled our guide Rodriguez of thin dry branches of eucalyptus, and, behold, the three of us sitting around the small island of heat at the foot of the mysterious tropical mountains, dark silhouettes against the background show through an incredibly starry sky. Dark, surging to a tiny flower of fire, trying to strangle him, covered his black belly. But a small fire beats, throws sparks and strongly manifests the very stubborn, which is so characteristic of its elements ...

In fact, the story here goes not about the adventures that await us for a strip of pale yellow dawn, barely touching the distant snow-capped peaks. No. By a strange coincidence, now I want to talk about events that happened a little earlier and in another place, as well as the far from here, and from the rest of the world. And I will call his story "The Wind, The Rocks and the Southern Cross."
The first part

At the very edge of the earth there is a large island. To be more precise, it's two big and a bunch of small islands, but all this is so far away that many maps and globes editors simply too lazy to separate fines on the more distant smaller parts. Thus, giving a moderate tribute accuracy, say, at the very edge of the earth, there are two large islands - the North and South. This is their modern names ...

Our small climbing team raised here is an old legend of the natives, danym long exterminated unwelcome intruders, who later became hozyaivami (the usual case, called the "colonization"). So, those people are gone, but the words were. Words about how the sons of the supreme God of the World went to fish in the Great Sea, but in a way quarreled and flooded his cake. She had gone to the bottom of the nose and stern remained afloat. This is the stern and crowded unfortunate fishermen and stay there forever. Cold winds from the south with time ukuali their snowy blanket, topped ice cap. And where in the bottom of the waves beat against the sides and bottom of the pie - there, from sea grass and foam gradually formed the island.

People who live here now, called the South Island, and the highest mountain of the island, is really having some similarity to the tip of the sunken cakes "top Cook" in honor of the man who has committed a lot of geographical discoveries in the southern seas, and in particular, one of the first to sail to 1769 to the shores of New Zealand - a country that I like that, literally and figuratively from afar, trying to start your story.

In the South Island of New Zealand is a mountainous system, called by analogy with its distant relative of the North - Southern Alps. Name is quite appropriate. Of course, the scale of the island can not be compared with Europe, but by the number of vertices of the complex, the scale glaciation, and by geographic location analogy is appropriate. And on the severity of the climate and the difficulty of the routes, the Southern Alps are significantly higher than the Northern ...

Chain of the Southern Alps stretches for 200 km from east to west continuous succession of pointed peaks in the fortieth degrees south latitude - European Alps are located on the same parallel, but only in the northern hemisphere.
The second part

Kea !!! CARE !!!!! KE-E-E-A !!! And it's not sincere shёpotkom and not even just loud - it's extremely loud right next to the tent - or rather above it. The answer to the question: "what a skunk so screaming ?!" came to me by itself almost simultaneously with the abrupt transition from sleep to wakefulness. And at the same time with the answer to the previous one, came the next question - what we have not yet managed to steal ?!

Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook Kea Parrots - national pride of New Zealand, are not only gigantic size, intelligence and wit, but have one more feature, famed for their world-- they steal everything they can find, steal, break off. And thanks to its impressive beak and claws, they can break off a lot. I had time to jump out of the tent to prevent theft boot fact, recklessly abandoned next to a nearby tent. Unfortunately for the neighbor, my interference bit late, and I prevented the theft of a second shoe, the first has already been stolen ... Why parrots paired items - Voros idle. I think, just for fun. But in fact, if you do not leave belongings unattended, can not suffer from exaggerated curiosity these mega-birds. By the way, these thieves have another osobennst - they can not do anything in silence - if the parrot is especially joyful shouts - then drags something alien ... Funny creatures. But even funnier was the face of our neighbor for camping when he learned that I was able to save only one of his shoes. Apparently, a spare pair of shoes he was not ...
third

The name of the settlement, located at the foot of the highest mountain in New Zealand - Mount Cook Village is a little confusing. I expected to see, if not the village, then at least some semblance of the settlement. But civilization, made their way into these wild places, has done its job and left the village only one name. In fact, it turned out that Mount Cook Village - a complex of modern hotels and motels, topped with a luxurious five-star The Hermitage.

Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook In this "village" was not even a supermarket, and products for the ascent we had to buy a stall in the hotel ... Visit informant and got a pretty vague information about the route and completely tactless statements that near Mount Cook, no one, because no one wants to die there, we nevertheless signed up to climb and no particular hurry, headed to where the dazzling shine yet completely unfamiliar to us snow-capped peaks.

Leaving behind a cloud of dust on an old, battered Mazda, we cheerfully rolled down quite decent dirt track, which for some reason on the map was designated as the track-only 4x4 ... Immediately after crossing a small puddle, meet us round the bend left little vezdehodik, jam-packed with the Japanese. The owner is very unfriendly terrain vehicle told us that in fact, on the climbing and rock climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook track, and especially through the puddle, not even all the jeeps can drive, so nothing we go wherever we go . But the wrath of lord in a jeep had quite a simple explanation, in no way connected with the quality of the road and some difficulties for us. He just sold the Japanese off-road tour, brought them in a jeep to the top of this same primer, in addition to the trailer brought more shestikolёsny small vezdehodik. Then he unloaded it, there transplanted Japanese moved his them with a splash through a shallow puddle and everyone was happy, yet did not fall to meet some Russian idiots on a regular sedan gouging and not spoil the impression of the Japanese off-road tour Uncle Joe ...

Well, God bless him, with a hack Uncle Joe, that he wants as his fools Japs. At our Leningradke and then more bumps than on his off-road!

We, meanwhile, has already reached the point where the road suddenly quite finished, further led only peshehdnaya trail walking, according to the map, to the hut, which bears the name of the savory "Hut Old Egg", probably in honor of a famous first settlers.

On the edge of a huge moraine of the shaft, this is the room for oneself modest house with two windows and a roof to the ground. However, on the roof sported a rather rather big solar panel, and inside - modest, but clean and comfortable: two-tiered bunks with quite decent mattresses and warm blankets, portable radio on the wall, browsing history, according to which, the house is rarely empty.

And the sky, meanwhile, walked very menacing clouds - overdressed dandy, in lace and fine razveayuschihsya robes. In my acquaintance latitudes, such promenade in the sky usually Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook precedes what is real cataclysm, but this time it was difficult to make forecasts - near Antarctica, the Tasman Sea on one side and the Pacific Ocean on the other. .. and what, in the end, the difference ?! It was nice to walk along the trail in good weather, but anyway, we need to get to the Big Ice Plateau with its hut Plateau Hut, and then the weather will be crucial for the climb ...
The fourth part

Early the next morning we cheerfully (as far as allowed weight of backpacks) moved along the path towards the glacier, which, according to the map and route description, we should cross. Soon, however, the main trail marked "kicked the bucket" - broke into many Malenik paths and lost in a thicket of thorns covering the slopes of the valley. From that moment began an adventure ... Habit trust route description, worked out in traveling on a more or less civilized mountains played a cruel joke with me in the mountains of New Zealand. Even on our Caucasus, Altai, Tien Shan and Pamir, despite the total places without any services, tours and trails are marked with landmarks, people care about each other, so as not to let the god, no one got lost. In the hyper-tsivilizovaannyh European Alps, all the routes are described in detail and labeled so that the risk of getting lost is small even in humans, first came to the mountains. So what ?! New Zealand, high quality of life, well-developed tourism industry, cleanliness and poryadodk around ...

But trails in the mountains intentionally not marked and vaguely described in Hyde beeches. Why? - The answer is simple: so people are forced to use the services of local guides, incidentally, very not cheap. About Mount Cook - generally a separate conversation. A very difficult route approach generally covered with a veil of secrecy - Most of climbing group used for infiltration route for local services Aviation, a few thousand dollars for half an hour you can reach the large ice plateau on a small airplane - he can sit up on the glacier. Or you can take a tour guide - it will cost roughly like an airplane. But if you want to go for yourself - this is your problem, no one will tell you exactly where and how to go.

My personal opinion - all this just sucks. Such an approach obviously provokes emergency and endanger the lives and safety of travelers. With a feeling of complete innocence I confidently throw this stone to the National Park Mount Cook. Much of what has been done in the Southern Alps for the convenience and safety of tourists deserves respect, but deliberate withholding of information about routes - is a crime and a shame.
fifth

Okay, enough criticism. A lot of little angry tone and get back to what followed the path loss. We had a detailed map of the mountain area and the satellite navigator - something totally irreplaceable in the mountains. Following the main directions and prompts card, a few hours wandering the hill, we still found a passage, crossed a small mountain range and debris down on the glacier - Map promised if not Freestuff, but, nevertheless, an option to lift pass Cinerama Pass - the only possible way to get to the plateau from the Tasman Glacier. In fact, already became clear where the mistake was made - on the slope of the gorge protivopolonom lurks barely visible path leading to another glacier descending from the same pass. Apparently, in the description was referring to the glacier, but not this one, on which we have worked so hard perched. However, the opportunity to correct the error was not there - would have cost us to return a lost day. And the steepness of the two glaciers, according to the map, was about the same. In short, we decided to follow the path, which was before us.

Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook Glacier, at the bottom of rather flat and strewn with stones, as the rise, becoming steeper, more cracks had to get, winding from one to the other edge of the glacier. Ice cracks became wider and deeper - the card is not cheating - tightly huddled blue contour lines talked about one thing - the first step in front of us icefall, after which, at the turn of the glacier, before the next, more of an extended stage, there is a small plateau, again according to the map, almost smooth.

The first attempt to find a passage between the huge ice blocks randomly scattered - seracs - failed. Bottomless crack with steep walls leave no hope for the easy passage of this part of the route. The only option pass - on the edge of the glacier, vplone to the rocks - not particularly pleased, but inhibited the need - from the rocks, with grim regularity and a deafening roar went powerful rockfalls ...

Other options passage was not, and, gritting heart, wearing a cat and get ready for the most troublesome case scenario, we cautiously began to traverse the glacier toward the giant meat grinder.

But, as it turned out, it was not all so hopeless. Although close to the zone of rock falls, but still relatively safe passage we found along the edge of the glacier, heavily broken cracked, but still passable. By the evening, weary unexpectedly severe start of the route, we went on a gentle part of the glacier, it is a safe and suitable for spending the night.
sixth

Under the bottomless dome studded unfamiliar constellations of the sky, in the middle of a completely wild, cold and hostile world, warm candle, lit from within a small tent ... the obvious question "why" again remains unanswered. Just like that. Because of the unrealistic beauty needs viewer. Because it is so bright shining stars and have the opportunity to stay with them alone. Because the snow-capped peaks so close to heaven. Because there are questions that can be answered only with the heart ...

Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook After dinner we have long admired the starry sky, trying to find a shining chaos at least one familiar constellation. In vain. The only thing that comes to mind - at this latitude should see the Southern Cross - the most famous constellation of the southern hemisphere. But all attempts to find it or to have failed - too many bright stars .... It's funny, but in the picture of the starry sky made the night just above the tent turned constellation of five stars, a little wrong, but still without a doubt Phillips shape. The only explanation for why we could not find it, maybe the fact that the Southern Cross at that time was against the background of the Milky Way, merging with it in brightness. A photographic film, still, you will see the brighter stars, and as it turned out, what we've been looking for was right in front of our eyes, to be exact - over his head.
seventh

Morning pleased still good, sunny weather. On this day, we had to overcome the second step of the glacier - a longer, albeit more gently sloping. All the way to the pass has been viewed at a glance - quiet, easy ascent in the lower third, ragged, but traversed the middle part, and at the top, before going to pass - a predatory grin huge fracture, torn Glacier from edge to edge. But, in the end, it was the only apparent problem, overcoming that, we found ourselves almost at the very saddle pass. Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook Grid crevasses and deep faults was becoming denser, more insistently forcing us to cling to the left edge of the glacier, covered with lumps of fresh snow avalanches and landslides traces of ice. Cracks were not there, but the feeling of extreme danger forced to constantly look up - where hung over our route oromnye ice chips side icefalls. Until the end of the dangerous section was no more than a hundred meters.

The sharp sound like a shot, lashed the extremely tense nerves ... Instantly looks up. In slow motion, I see a huge chunk of ice slowly separating from the glacier hanging over us. Assessment of the situation is immediate. General sitting in my head, takes command of themselves and throws short commanding officer ... How much time do we have? - Two or three seconds. Options? Quickly go up ... - ... one hundred meters, do not have time. Down? - Catch up with the avalanche. Jump into the crack? - Zasypet ... What should I do ??? The answer comes spontaneously, as if from the outside:

- ALL UNDER seracs !!!! Discuss orders in such cases are not supposed to - quickly jump only be around for a small block of ice - the remainder of a previous landslides. At the same time I catch sight of children - they are next. Whole body pressed against the ice, close my eyes, draw his shoulders and I feel like ice shudders trembling from priblizhayuschisya heavy blows a huge mass of ice, rushing down with the speed of the locomotive. Even closer ... closer ..

Well, that's it. Have impacted teeth. If the calculation of the general was true, then the avalanche, speeding, must fly over our little hideaway. If the old bastard made a mistake in the calculations ...

If the avalanche is not enough speed - something for us, as an ice rink, hire several tons of ice blocks, each of which is sufficient to roll out the cake is something much more solid than we do.

If the avalanche enough power to carry our shelter ... In short, the result is the same.

All these arguments run through my mind in a matter of seconds. Then we were covering an avalanche. Block, covering us from the flow of ice rubble, shudders with a groan, but remains in place. With tightly closed eyes, skin feel pronsyaschiysya ten centimeters a continuous stream of death. The only thing to remember - the feeling of complete helplessness. Nothing can be done. Even the smallest of flying by pieces of ice is enough for the three of us ...

Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook But shocks buffeting became so dear ice surface, are becoming rarer.

The last thought that slowly Kata behind all lump all still able to get us in our shelter.

Strike a blow ... More ... lifts the left eye and see how we have flown a healthy chunk of ice with a splash crashes into a bunch of small fragments of a few meters below us and obdaёt icy spray. Everything is quiet.

Not believing in what has happened, turn my head and ask a stupid question: all alive? Though, and so I see that all. Miracle? Or just luck? Not the time to argue, General still the shots:

- ALL UP FAST !!!!

Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook Run, despite the weight of backpacks and fatigue, we jump out from under the cover and bear up, to where no longer afraid of repeated collapse. Unreal luck. Avalanche took place just a few centimeters above us and no one hurt.

Then we walked in silence for a long time. Anyway, as it did not want to discuss what happened.

Upper fault icefall was easier than it looked from the bottom and carefully passed through a narrow blade knife ice, we went on a gentle slope snow wide saddle long-awaited pass.
eighth

Here in fact, seemed to have quite an adventure to date. But the view from the pass convincingly refuted this theory ....

Gigantic bowl, rugged dense mesh cracks, lay at our feet Upper Ice Plateau. On the opposite side of his barely visible in the distance a tiny house, stuck to a small rocky island - climbing hut Plateau Hut, beckoning its inaccessibility oasis of human warmth among the dead, deadly ice desert.

Everything would be relatively easy and well, if not dark gray solid wall blizzard, is already closed distal portion of the glacier and move confidently towards us.

I wanted to throw a backpack and not anywhere else to go. Well as you can ?! First collapse, now that has so little left to the house - a blizzard.

How do we find the way to the house among the maze of crevasses, even if in good visibility there is no obvious passage? And when beating in the face gale force winds, snow close up glasses for a few seconds?

Again, something makes me move from apathy to active deysviya. Quickly take out the satellite navigator and receive azimuth to the hut. What is the distance from it to pass? Check with the card: 2.6 km. Frozen fingers reluctant to click on the button of the device. So Much. Everything is made. Now, even at zero visibility arrow will lead us to the right place. One problem: in a straight line to the house did not pass - the central part of the glacier is impassable due to cracks. Looks like you need to go, clinging to the very foot of the north wall of Aoraki, there cracks considerably less, but there may be falling more and not good for the health ...

We had to go down just a hundred meters below the pass when hit in the face for the first time charges blizzard. A few minutes later the visibility was gone completely closed over the world and we have a mixture of raging wind and sleet.

Remembering visual relief and relying on the testimony of the navigator, I led the group through the glacier. I still do not understand how I was able to go through without visibility torn to shreds ice field where the cracks connecting edges, formed an intricate web, and every wrong move threatened to fall into a bottomless ice trap. It seemed that some external force leads me through a snowstorm, halfway stopping every misstep and almost oshutimo pushing in the right direction. In short, two hours later, seemingly random walk in a blinding white chaos in front of us tread the dark silhouette of the saving shelter ... the second time that day we were cool, very lucky ...
ninth

Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook Heavy steel lever locking sealed door, leaned with difficulty, and strong walls house carefully hid us from the raging outside elements. Snowstorm in impotent rage trying to reach escaped from her production has increased several times and shook the house Nakatami dense heavy wind gusts.
tenth

Loudly crunching snow under the teeth of cats. Dancing-packed wind crust white spot light diode flashlight. Carefully avoiding the dark gaps cracks, we cross a shallow part of the glacier and moving toward the hidden darkness and fog cover huge rocky massif of the highest and treacherous mountains of New Zealand. From time to time, through tears of clouds lurking stars ...

That night, after three days of continuous blizzard and Associated forced seats in the cabin, the weather is still given a chance to start climbing.

Left early, well before dawn to dawn to pass the lower part of the route, before the first rays of the sun touch the wall and it will revive rockfalls, avalanches and ice avalanches. So far, all is quiet. Mountain asleep. Only two tiny specks of light dancing on the glacier. And the snow creaks under the cat ...

Stars, occasionally lurks among the clouds, quietly confident pale in comparison to growing brighter sky. Dawn begins. Night fog gradually dissipated, goes down into the valley. A little out of the dark outlines of the surrounding terrain, become visible basic guidelines.
eleventh

Climbing route on Mount Cook, we have chosen - for eastern ridge, judging by the description - the safest route, although not the easiest. Most climbing to the top of this now will make a route that runs through the glacier Linda (Linda Glacier Route). But this is the most popular route has one drawback - most of it takes place under the threat of collapse of ice annually claiming the lives of people ... After adventures on the way, no desire to tempt fate again and crawl under the icefall we did not have. Therefore, after some thought, we decided on, actually, too classic route along the Eastern edge.

For the first time on this route in 1938 on top of Aoraki / Mount Cook, New Zealanders have risen Dan Bryant and Lud Maan. Not the first attempt to conquer them top. Five years earlier, a team of New Zealand for the first time the four of us tried to climb to the top, but this attempt failed and cost the lives of two men ... for the second time for the summit climbers go, having been behind much more experience of climbing - two years before they reached the Everest ... But despite this, novozelndskaya top, being almost five kilometers below his older brother Asia, was given to them with great difficulty ... The main problem faced by the pioneers, and faced by all climbers, who challenged the Aoraki - this abrupt change in the weather, hurricane force winds and extremely unstable state routes.
twelfth

It was getting lighter, and when the bright red light of dawn touched the summit ridge and a fire broke out Aoraki snow cap neighboring peaks Tasman, we were at an altitude of 3200 meters - a kilometer above the hut from which began the ascent.

The top was still 500 meters. Following the description of the route, we climbed the wide ice shelf under a small, adjacent to the West Ridge buttress. Move forward becoming increasingly difficult due to the deep fresh snow in the last few days. Its depth reaches to the knee ... The steeper the climb became, the more it became snow. Especially on steep sections had to literally "fish out" the drifts, leaning first breast, then raking his hands loose and flowing snow under your knees and gently wake up on received as a result of this maneuver step. And start all the new ... But in the book it was clearly stated: Comb - ice.

Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook The last effort, changing every fifty paces, we dug a trench in deep snow.

Remains no more than 50 meters ... 20 ... 10 ... Is this the end of our snow torment?

Get out and sit on the crest on his back, as he is the width of the palm, and is terminated at the other side of the precipice steep wall. Get up on it would not be desirable. So Much. Hitch .. Where is the ice ??? And how can we insure? It seems that way. Well, maybe the ice begins after rising above a little higher on the ridge of rocks?

Somehow, somewhere astride somewhere gently rising and balancing on the edge of the ridge, we go up another 200 meters.

Scala. Below it looked much easier. Our snow crest ran into a little steep rock and there ended. Perplexed, nestled on a tiny patch of snow, take out the route description. Errors can not be, in the book in black and white pictures painted on our route.

This is the surprise ... It is an unexpected obstacle. Route description delicately silent about the fact that in the middle of the rib has a rocky section length of at least 100 meters. Description of the route is generally defined as a completely ice .. But where is the ice ??? First funky snow ridge, now this ... Rocks covered with snow and does not appear to be simple. In addition, as far as the review, no signs of hooks, bolts or dyulfernyh loops. In short, again no insurance. Complete disgrace. Five minutes going to the spirit. Completely without any desire to go over the wall. No clues, they are all either in the snow or covered with ice.

Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook commits a lukewarm attempt to climb, caught an ice pick for a tiny roughness of the rock. Climb and a half meters. Feelings of extreme uncertainty makes an attempt to stop and go back to frantically comb. Fly off with this climbing - as nothing else to do. And insurance then and there. Teammate Prytula ten meters down the ridge and from hopelessness clings ice ax stuck in the snow. Judging by the expression on his face, my attempts he was not pleased: ice pick in this situation - it is a fiction, if I fell, he jumped like a carrot from the wet beds, and we both long tumble to the bottom.

Well, no, it's just some kind of a complete bummer! Great weather, and we then diarrhea, the king's evil - first in the snow up to his waist, then riding a snow knife, and now even a rock - and though hinted at all this in the description! But, in principle, to the top is not so far - that would pass this rock, there just has to start the ice - a reliable insurance, fast steady rise, pleasant climbing ... Ah, the dream! ..

Dream a little, I tell myself that the kinks will rock for sure what a thing for insurance and then walk over to the wall.

It is very unpleasant to the touch. All the clues are covered with a thin layer of snow on the rock namёrzshego. I am first clue beak ice ax, then scraped whisking cat somewhere below. Then, completely trusting support, carefully stood up. Inner voice call names harsh words against my mental faculties. I pretend not to hear, and climb a few meters - where, according to my ESTIMATE should be this same thing for insurance. In the end, there is already more than half a century people climb, do not hook one scored? !! Scored likely. Only then pulled out and took away with them, meanie. And I have a hook, no. And the hammer, too - the route is surely the ice should be! .. But there is no option too, need to invent some kind of insurance - down climbing down will not succeed. I climb further. Find some semblance of shelves, put a couple of bookmarks in the gap between the tiles slates staggering. No, it is not insurance.

It seems that this one does not falter ... stone throws him a rope and screaming down: Insurance is ready! Only it can not ship!

Partner appreciated the joke and raised exactly three times longer than me. Another strёmnaya rope, another 50 meters of climbing on icy Sands - enjoy significantly below average. Well, sort of, that's all ... But for some reason, rising to the top of the 120 meter high rock bastion I did not feel the expected relief - ice route on Aoraki on the eastern ridge, apparently, existed only in the description. But here I do not blame the authors. Most likely, this is the case, when the weather completely changed route, making it almost impassable. Only here about rock they not written in vain, I would take at least a couple of hooks ...
part XIII

Straight from the rocky bastion, which we climbed with grief in half, began a sharp knife snow ridge, with no signs of ice.

Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook The situation is quite sad. Theoretically, of course you can try ... But all my experience suggests that in the first place - insurance on the crest of this there will be no. Secondly - we already ten o'clock on the route and descent - not easier lifting, and much more dangerous. To a cold night on the route so we mentally and physically were not ready, and hope that the weather will hold another day was not. In short, having estimated the odds, I looked at his partner. He is sad and expressive eyed separate us from the top of 300 meters. Near the elbow ...

Disputes over future plans were not. Sat. Looked. And they estimate the route of descent. Skalka, of course, Petty was. Two hours later we went up to her, and still down nearly as much. That's probably ikalos Mr. Palmanu - author senseless descriptions.

Mountaineering and climbing in New Zealand, climbing Mount Cook As it turned out, the decision to start the descent came to us just in time. In the hut we dragged around eight o'clock in the evening, completely exhausted by the return of muddy snow day - if we have failed to rise to his knees, and only in the upper part of the route, on the way down - on a fork all the way. That's such a sad story. Two hours after our return cyclone came and then another three days trying to smash to pieces our house.
Fourteenth part

Three days later, we were promised on the radio that the next day you can expect some relief from the weather. This was good news - we are stuck on the Plateau is the eighth day and really wanted a change of scenery in the direction of something more comfortable. And the products are coming to an end, we took them a whole four days ... Thank God, in the hut there were some leftovers, but it would have had to lose weight without Herbalife.
The fifteenth part

Down quickly. For descent decided nevertheless to try the option proposed in our knizhentsii. There offers directly from the pass Cinerama leave for another pass - Boys Pass, such as on this route from the "old eggs" to the house on the plateau can be reached in eight hours ... I do not know what the author had in mind, but the trigger for good weather we spent 12:00 ... Somehow not really have with the provision of objective information ...

Machine we waited - happily blinked headlights in response to pressing keychain. That's all over. You're feeling what is unreal, as if visited by a fairy tale. Very beautiful mountains. Wild, clean and vibrant. In the literal and figurative sense. All fray and falls continuously. Very serious mountains, demanding man. Does not forgive mistakes and disrespect. Good mountains. Definitely come here again ... :)

P.S. Evening. Dress mist-covered slopes of the gorge lovely pine trees. Noise Baksan spill clouded because of continuous rain. Sad and cold in this weather in the mountains. In the Caucasus, often in the early summer are the influx of such pieces fall sadness ...

Came to an end the story of our New Zealand adventure. There was a feeling of emptiness which is like good guests left. A strange feeling - one on the thread of the story strung beads tale of three continents ... Such is the strange thing - the mountains. It seems to be different everywhere, and at the same time anywhere so close to each other ..

Kordlera Blanca, Peru - Caucasus, Russia

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From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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