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Khan Tnegri from the North

Tien Shan.
Khan Tengri (7010 m), Classic
from the North, through the peak Chapaev, KS 5a

In this section you will find the most objective technical information about climbing routes. Route descriptions are based on personal experience guides operating on these routes. They do not claim absolute accuracy, bound for the complexity of individual sections can be subjective.

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School of Mountaineering and Climbing AlexClimb assumes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page.

Do not forget that climbing routes can be deadly regardless of their complexity.

Alma Ata in a car to get to the mountaineering camp Bayankol (photo), 600 km, is required to obtain a permit to stay in the border zone with China. From Bayankol helicopter thrown glacier Northern Inylchek, where the Base Camp 4000m (photo). Standard chart climbing (Photo) involves the use of intermediate camps 4800, 5800, 6100 (Saddle) and, in rare instances, 6300. The route is quite popular and usually all areas representing at least some technical complexity provesheny stationary handrail. However, it is necessary to use them with caution, as the ropes are heavily worn (photo). From 4800 BC to the camp route goes to the gentle snow slope does not pose any difficulty. The first rope usually hang through bergshrund 100 meters below the camp and lead to it. Further along the ridge to climb the broad shoulder at the bottom of snowy summit ridge Chapaev peak (6300 m) (photo). On this site railing hang continuously (photo). In the way of lifting the camp 4800 to 5800 found a short camp complex to undergo lots - rocky stage (10-20 m, 70-90º). In the absence of handrails, insurance on pitons. From 5800 on the uncool camp avalanche slope reach the summit ridge of the peak Chapaev (photo). From the top of Chapaev peak down to the saddle where you would normally spend the night in a snow cave. Next, on a wide, rocky ridge proveshennomu railing atop the tower of Khan Tengri reach the top.

Descend along the ascent.

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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