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Mont Blanc via Mont Maudit

In this section you will find the most objective technical information on the mountain climbing routes. All mountain route descriptions are based on the personal experience of our guides operating these routes. They do not claim for absolute accuracy, evaluation of the complexity of some sections can be subjective and depend on the season. All materials listed in that section are intellectual property and intended for informational purposes only, any commercial use or total or partial reproduction is possible only by written permission of the copyright holder. MCS AlexClimb School of Mountaineering and Rockclimbing takes no responsibility for any consequences of using the information provided on this page. Do not forget that mountain climbing routes can be deadly dangerous regardless of their complexity.

Alps, Italy - France.
Climbing Monblan by classic route via Mont Maudit. Season: July - October (Best time - September - October)

Information intended for evaluation purposes only. In order to avoid surprises and possible dangers and complications, we recommend to take part in the organized program of the MCS AlexClimb "Climbing in Alps, climbing Monblan" - by well known route, accompanied by experienced guides. This will significantly increase the probability of success and safety of your climbing in Alps. 

There are two classic variant of clibing Monblan route - one is from Italy - from Courmayeur and another from France - from Les Houches. We describe here only one of  the routes - from Italy. You can start it from the resort town Courmayeur which0 is easily accessible from Milan by bus,0000 by train (to Aosta, then bus) or by car on the motorway Turin-Aosta. From Courmayor you can get by the cable car to the mountaineering shelter Torino, then walk around the hut on the left side and enter the glacier. The route is very popular, and there is always a lot of people, the trail on the galcier is very visible and it goes to the alpine hotel Cosmique. The main landmark - the memorial in the form of rifle cartridge on top of Aiguille du Midi. Crossing the glacier takes an average of 2-3 hours. Depending on snow conditions you may need to go roped - there is a danger of crevasses. During the crossing the glacier there is no altitude gain - from Torino Hut, first you go down for about 200m, then up again, walking to the Cosmique. You can stop for the night in this hut ( price from 40 Eur), or camp directly on the glacier below it (which is free) - this way many people do, there is always many camping sites at the base of Cosmique Hut. From here begins the Mont Blanc ascent, which normally takes 8-10 hours.

The standard start time of the beginning of an ascent - 2-3 o'clock in the morning, many people start at this time and to get mistaken with the route is quite difficult - you just have to fallow everybodies direction. Climbing is recommended roped - on the closed glacier there are many crevasses. The trail crosses the glacier and goes to the base of the wide snow - ice slope be whichserpentining around multiple crevasses the trail goes up.

The ascent of Monblan route is not steep, in some places up to 40º, but as a rule, the organization of  stationary belaying points is not required. In good weather, the slope overlooks the beautiful night Chamonix town below. Getting to the upper plateau which is to be crossed to the left (the ditance from the Base Camp is0 2-3 hours). After that plateau the ascent begins to the crux section of this Monblan route - ice couloir. Normally the common moving is getting very slow in that place, and to overtaking slow climbers sometimes is quite difficult task - in that case you can clime a bit to the right from the everybodies line - it is steeper, but there is no chance to be killed by someone falling down from the top of that only one technical part of the Monblan route. After climbing the crux cestion, you will find yourself on a broad ridge from which you follow the trail  a bit down to the next level of plateau, cross it (1 hour), and get to the base of the Summit dome of Monblan. Further, being very careful crossing the multiple crevasses climb the top of Monblan (1.5-2 hours). Descend the same way, with the same difficulties - the crux part can be overcrowded while going down as well as when you climbing up.

We wish you good luck and good weather!

Our Principles

AlexClimb Rule #1 - Safety First

From the very beginning of our activity, here nearly 16 years, the first Principle of work of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb is the Safety Priority. On the basis of this Principle all process of training is based, all programs and rounds are developed and carried out only within this main principle. We consider that at professional approach to development of programs, at personal discipline and correctly put motivation - occupations by mountaineering and rock-climbing are COMPLETELY safe. And from the return - all troubles and accidents in our sport come from nonprofessionalism, from ignorance or neglect by elementary standards of safety, from irrational motivation, from revaluation of own forces and opportunities. All these prerequisites we COMPLETELY EXCLUDE in our work - ours Rock-climbing, Ice climbing and Mountaineering are based on one Principle - the Safety Priority. In rock-climbing, mountaineering and ice climbing, the Priority of Safety of MCS AlexClimb-is your personal security and comfort irrespective of, than we are engaged - we train muscles and we work technology of the movement in the sports hall and on the rock climbing wall, we make the way through snowstorm to top or we relax on golden sand of the Caribbean beach after hot day of trainings on rocks. The Safety priority - the main credo of School of mountaineering and rock-climbing of MCS AlexClimb.

AlexClimb Rule #2 - Leave No Trace

Closely interacting with Nature, working with the active programs in mountains, woods, lakes and rivers, we perfectly understand the importance of carefull and respectfull bahavior towards the Nature, for its resources. From the very beginning of our outdoor-activity we adopted rules of  Leave No Trace technique - the standard of behavior of the person accepted in all the civilized world in relation to environment and especially - to the wild nature. After all on the relation of people to the nature near which they exist, itself can draw dalekoidushchy conclusions on the relation of these people to... Where and as we didn't travel - we don't reserve any garbage, we try to reduce whenever possible our influence on environment to a minimum. We clear earlier zagryazyonny tourist parking of the left garbage, we take out and we take out to utilization places that to us other people left there. We consider that only thus, at personal individual consciousness of each citizen, each tourist, climber or autotraveller, we will be able to keep the nature surrounding us in its state, natural, suitable for life, - in it pledge of the healthy future for ourselves and our children.

AlexClimb Rule #3 - Sober Concious

The position of AlexClimb Mountain and rockclimbing School regarding healthy lifestyle is quite clear - we consider that only sober consciousness is capable to fill sincere emotions,  to sympathize, to enjoy life in all its variety. Bright various enjoyable life is possible only on condition of keeping the absolute sobriety and purity of consciousness. Any way of obscuring our perception of reality is intended to do harm to our consciousness and bring harm to our physical health, to replace the true values by false ones, to destroy us physically - to turn us into flabby, weak, senseless, gray herd with empty hazy eyes. We don't force anybody to our point of view, everyone has a God's gift of making his own choice and to destroy himself if that is what he wants... But in AlexCilimb Mountain Climbing School we accept quite certain and very simple set of rules: neither alcohol, nor drugs.
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